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The hyena den was bathed in that slanting sunlight of the golden hour before nightfall, and we felt at peace with life hanging out on the plains of Ol Pejeta Conservancy in northern Kenya. Our Japanese hire car would talk and sing to us at every opportunity when the keys were engaged, and none of us knew how to mute it, so I had removed them from the ignition and dropped them in my lap. I turned to smile in shared contentment at my partner, Amy in the passenger seat, and to our friend Charlotte in the back. Read on......